There’s nothing to tell about my flight to Philadelphia, save for a slight delay in leaving Atlanta. It was, as it was supposed to be, uneventful. On that first morning I awoke, showered, and got ready for my day in New York city. I was very excited about it. I was trying to remove any expectation because, admittedly, my only frame of reference for NYC is Hollywood and we all know how distorted those visions can be even if they are ‘based’ on a true story.

For breakfast I had a bowl of Cream of Wheat. This brought back a flood of memories from my childhood when I used to have bowl of it nearly every morning at Mrs. Bolden’s house, my baby sitter and my best friend’s mother. Suddenly, after smelling it and having a couple of spoonfuls of it, I was transported back to her small kitchen, all geared up in my winter gear, boots and all, and ready to go to school.

Soon, Tom and I left for the train station to catch our ride into Manhattan. Well, one thing is for sure, people in New Jersey drive for keeps! It’s not the good old, slow southern way of driving. People here are, shall we say, on a mission and they take no prisoners, Tom included. During the ride to the station, Tom looked over at me and said that I seemed to be used to this type of driving because I wasn’t hanging on for dear life and stomping on the floorboards. Obviously, I was keeping my terror well concealed! :-)

When we made it to the Amtrak station to catch the train, this was all new to me, Tom told me what to buy, I bought it, and we were on our way. The ride into NYC took 45 minutes, as we didn’t catch the express train; We’d just missed it by about 5 minutes. In the end, it would have saved us only about 15 minutes. No big loss. As we disembarked, I expected to be confronted by a huge mass of humanity, like I see in the movies, but was disappointed(?). There were a lot of people, but not an unreasonable amount. Everyone was moving pretty fast though. You could tell that this was a high-paced environment.

As Tom and I made it to the escalator to exit Penn Station and head up to the street, 8th Avenue and 34th St, we were moseying a bit. That is we were sauntering, meandering, lollygagging, or just plain not walking fast. Suddenly, from behind, a little old lady, about 60 or so, with a large cart of stuff said, mostly to me: Let’s go! Let’s go! Let’s go! I replied: Yes ma’am! and moved quickly out of her way! She promptly mounted the escalator, went up the street, and was gone faster than you can say: Move your a$$, buddy! Dang! I could do nothing but laugh.

Tom simply looked at me and said: Welcome to New York!

 


Welcome to Heavenly Harlem
Though it wasn’t on the plan, Tom and I went to Harlem, NY. We had made our way into the city and were waiting for the ‘A’ train, which would take us to 86th street and Central Park. The train arrived, we boarded, sat down, and were waiting for it resume. Suddenly, Tom jumps up and says: Follow me! We exit the train opposite of where we got on and went into another train. This train was an ‘A’ train as well, but an express. It didn’t make as many stops in between where we were and where we wanted to be.


The doors closed and we were off sailing through the darkness, the occasional light flashing by at high speed. It seemed that we’d been rocking and rolling along for a while. Suddenly, in the light, I saw a station flash by, 106th street. We had passed our intended disembarkation point, 86th street. When the train finally came to a stop, we were at 125th Street, the beginning of Harlem. Tom asked if I wanted to go up and have a look. I most certainly did. It was a nice ‘mistake’, if you believe in those types of things, but since I don’t believe in mistakes, I was supposed to see this. :-)

I must admit, forthwith, that my mind is as polluted as the next person’s with the Hollywood portrayal of Harlem, or anything else for that matter. Make no bones about it, this used to be a rough place, very rough; however, after New York’s good fortune to have two back-to-back good mayors, the city as a whole is in much better shape and is demonstrably safer. If I believed what Hollywood showed me, I would have exited to a city that was filled with drug dealers, heroin addicts, pimps, and all manner of criminal activity with each and every face being black.

This was not what I saw when I exited the subway. The subway exit is at 125th Street and St. Nicholas Avenue. I had never been here before, but knew about it. It seemed familiar in name. I’d heard a few raps back in the day that mentioned that particular corner. Turning the corner, looking to the right, I could scarcely believe my eyes. There it was, the Apollo Theater. One of the most well-known black venues in the world. So many famous people have graced the halls of this theater: James Brown, Fat Joe, Michael Jackson, Lauren Hill, Gladys Knight, Chris Rock, Bill Cosby, Dave Chappelle, just to name a few. I could certainly go on about those who have been born here, lived here at one time or another, or that live here currently, but you get the picture!


The streets were alive. There were all types of street vendors selling oils, African jewelry, all manner of clothing, and even bootleg videos and music. The sidewalks were filled with the sounds of old-school hip hop as well as R&B. No longer is Harlem a black-only thing; there were people represented from all races, each going about their own business.

Harlem has gone through many cycles, some good, some bad. Right now it is at the beginnings of gentrification. Yuppies are moving in, buying property, putting up expensive stores that the local residents have no interest in or cannot afford. This causes the property values to rise as well as the associated property taxes. Further, rents start to rise. Soon, the people who’ve lived there all of their lives can no longer afford to. The face of Harlem starts to change. There are some groups who are trying to fight it, yet, others who applaud it.

It was very difficult to choose one photo out of the many that I took that represented my feelings about Harlem, complex though they were; however, the photo at the top of this post seems to do the trick. Pictured are:


Malcolm X
Barack Obama
Nelson Mandella
Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.

Each, a hero in the black community. Each offering a ray of light, hope, and strength. In case you cannot read it, the banner says: Welcome to Heavenly Harlem.

Note: These images mark a first for me in a few ways:

  1. This was my first trip to Harlem
  2. This was my first time using Ilford HP5 (ISO 400). I shot it at 800.
  3. Naturally, this was my first time developing HP5+. I really liked the results!
  4. I didn’t use the Leica for this. I shot all of my Harlem images using a Olympus 35 LC from 1965 or so.
 


I’d love to lie to you and tell you that I’m a world class traveler, savvy in the ways of all modes of transportation, but you’d never believe me and rightfully so, because it’s not true! I have just come back from spending a great weekend with one big-hearted guy, Tom Aeliss. This morning we said our goodbyes and I headed to the airport early to see if I could get an earlier flight home as the original flight was to land in Charlotte at 11:55 PM. Tom graciously picked me up in Philadelphia on Wednesday evening. Mind you, the airport is about 90 minutes from his home one way.

As he greatly overexerted himself this weekend hanging with me and showing me the sights, I certainly didn’t want him to have to drive to Philly today. Add to that there was a major baseball game going and a bridge closure. It might have taken him 2 or 3 hours each way! Tom dropped me off at the Trenton Transit Center in Trenton, NJ at 12:45. I had with me one suitcase, one backpack with camera gear, and one laptop case. Here’s how the day went:

11:30: Left Tom’s house for Trenton Transit Center
12:45 : Dropped off at Trenton Transit Center.
13:06: Caught R7 train to Philadelphia 30th Street Station (45 minute ride)
14:06: Caught R1 train from 30th Street Station to the airport (15 minute ride)
14:30: Checked bags, changed flight to earlier flight. Paid the $50 change fee.
[waiting ... waiting ... waiting]
16:45: Left for Atlanta, Georgia (ATL)
18:30 Arrived in ATL
[waiting ... waiting ... waiting]
20:40: Left for Charleston.
22:00: Arrived in Charleston
22:45: Home at last!!!

Mind you, I’ve been lugging this stuff around all day. I’m tired. My knees hurt. I’m sleepy. Next time, I’ll forego the ‘apparent’ savings by flying to Philadelphia. I’ll just fly to Trenton and be done with it! So, all told, 2 trains, 2 planes, and two automobiles. I’ve had enough modes of transportation for one day. I did, however, feel very European this weekend. I spent a lot of time on trains and subways, but more about that later.

I’ve got 7 rolls of film to develop, but those probably won’t be done tonight!

© 2011 Paul Lester Photo Suffusion theme by Sayontan Sinha

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